***Disclaimer***
Make sure you follow all safe firearm handling procedures when attempting any firearm modifications! Check your local, state, and federal laws and make sure you are in compliance! Here is a guide to help you! I take absolutely no responsibility for anything bad that happens to you, your gun, your dog, etc, etc, etc.
Tools used:
- 1/2" drive hand drill
- 3/16" drill bit with pilot tip
[*}3/8" drill bit with pilot tip - Dremel rotary tool
- Dremel cutting bit
- Dremel conical grinding bit
- center punch
- rubber mallet
- flathead screwdriver
- needle nosed pliers
- metal file
Parts used:
- Tapco G2 Single Hook Fire Control Group
- Tapco Original Style AK Stock
- Tapco Original Style AK Grip
- Tapco AK Grip Screw and Nut
- DPH Birdcage Flash Hidder
- Tromix Gas puck
Step 1:
First we have to remove the factory sporter stock. In my short time on this forum, I have seen quite a few people ask how to accomplish this. Most people seem to overlook the fact that there are 3 screws holding the factory stock.
After removing the dust cover, it at first looks as though there is only one screw on the top of the receiver. Once we remover the recoil spring guide the third screw is revealed.
After removing all 3 screws, sometimes it is necessary to give the stock a few love taps with a mallet to loosen it up.
Step 2:
Hopefully by this point you have already removed your bolt carrier and bolt as well. If not, now would be a good time. Now it's time to remove the Fire Control Group retaining pins. To do this, you need to lift the retaining spring out of the way. I had a jard time taking pics of this while I was doing it, so please forgive the poor quality.
While holding the spring out of the way, tap the pins out from the right to the left like this:
Make sure you save these pins. You will need them when installing the Tapco G2 FCG.
Step 3:
Now with the factory FCG removed, it's easy to see that all we have left is the linkage which is riveted in place.
It's time to take out that drill and 3/16" bit, along with those needle nose pliers. In this picture you can see the pilot tip on the bit. When using a hand drill, this really helps keep your hole centered.
Remember to keep the drill speed low, and take your time. While drilling, use the pliers to hold the rivets from inside the receiver so that they don't spin.
All you need to drill out is the rolled edge of the rivet on the right side in order to tap out the pins. I recommend removing the rivets, then drilling the holes out the rest of the way so that you can fill them with the 3/16" nylon hole plugs later.
If you're lucky, you will be on center and just pop off a little ring from the rolled edge
Step 4:
Now we're down to a lot less moving parts. This means it's time to take off the trigger plate and trigger guard. There are 3 rivets holding this assembly in place.
Take your Dremel and cutting disk, and start at the rivet towards the back of the receiver. Keep the disk parallel with the bottom of the receiver and have a steady hand while you take off the head of the rivet. Once the head is removed, use your center punch and mark the center of the remaining rivet. Finish drilling it out with the 3/16" bit and drill. Next, lift the trigger guard up and do the same to the next rivet. Finally, take care of the last rivet in a similar fashion. When you are done, save the trigger guard for the next step.
Step 5:
Here is where I got creative with the Dremel, and fashioned the trigger guard and safety stop for reuse. I took thi pic before I cut off the rear most hole on the trigger guard. Make sure you remove that tab so that your pistol grip will fit.
Step 6:
After painting your newly designed trigger guard, it's time to install it. I'm guessing there are going to be a bunch of people that disagree with the way that I reattached my trigger guard, but it works for me. I used 3/16"x1/8" aluminum rivets. After installing the rivets, I chopped off their heads inside th receiver with my Dremel. I made sure not to go so low that i compromised the rivet, but enough that I got a clean, flat surface. I also made sure to rivet the front hole first, then bend the guard straight and get the back one.
Step 6:
In the last few pics, you probably noticed that I drilled the hole for the pistol grip nut. I measured the hole more or less by sight, and marked it with a pistol grip nut. Then I used my center punch to mark the center before drilling the 3/8" hole. After drilling the hole, I used my Dremel to square it off, and a file to smooth it out. I did a really shitty job at this. I'm glad it is hidden by the grip once everything is said and done. It works, and that is what I was concerned with.
Once I was done, I hit everything with a couple coats of paint to try and hide my mistakes.
Step 7:
Now it's time to hack up the Tapco G2 FCG.
If you notice, there isn't a disconnector spring included with the kit. You need to reuse the spring from your factory kit.
On the regular AK hammer, there is a bump that needs to be removed for the hammer to properly strike the firing pin. While you have your Dremel in hand, don't stop there. The right side of the hammer needs to be ground down for clearance and prevent rubbing the BHO. I used the factory hammer as a guide.
While I was at it, I decided to polish the hammer face, and the part of the hammer that makes contact with the sear. I did this to improve smoothness of trigger pull, and smoothness of the action. I did not remove any material from either surface.
Step 8:
Now it is time to reassemble the FCG and BHO. To be honest, there was no way I could take pictures of myself doing this. I was too busy swearing. Instead, I will provide a link to an awesome video that helped me. Big thanks to Greg at CSS for the video!
Step 9:
Time to pat yourself on the back, you did it!!!
*This is a guide that i followed to do my personal Saiga conversion.
Keywords- saiga 12 gauge shotgun trigger fire control group pistol grip butt stock trigger guard rivet flash hider tromix dph firearms
